Sunday, December 27, 2009

Difficult Day Re-do

Well I awoke in Siem Reap early, had a quick breakfast and made my way to the bus station, all packed up and ready to hit bangkok around lunchtime.
When I arrived at the station there was a bit of commotion about my bike. I didn't think anything of it because there is always commotion about it. The people seem to really like it. Well eventually one of the guys asks me if I'm bringing it on the bus. I mean I was planning on ditching the 33 year old vintage bike my dad let me borrow...but as a last thought I decided to bring it along you know?...riiiight. Anyways I explain to him that since I brought it from home of course I'm bringing it on the bus.
"Oh so sorry, you can't bring that on the bus."
"Why not?", I asked.
"Because the bus is very small"
"I've seem chickens, motorbikes, suitcases, cages, farm equipment and people sitting on the roof of the small buses....since when is a bicycle a problem?"
"You'll tear the upholstery"
At this point I was confused....Cambodian buses have upholstery?
So I explained to him that I needed to get on this bus, I had already made hotel reservations and I need to get to Bangkok today. I've already purchased my ticket and you knew I was bringing a bike. In fact, I've been taking buses the last few days, small buses mind you, and they've had no problem throwing a bike in there. The tires even come off! How handy is that?!
"Still cannot, you will damage the bus, and there is no room. You cannot ride the bus to Bangkok, not with this company.
After a few more minutes of this I at least managed to get a refund for my ticket and then sped my way to the central bus station 3 km out of town to try and catch another bus. After all this is Cambodia...if at first you don't succeed, find another way.
At the bus station I find a man selling tickets for the exact same company to the exact same bus. I explain my situation, throw him 2 extra dollars for my bicycle, and I was on the bus to Bangkok!...the exact same bus I would have ridden before....
It was a long three hours, but finally at the border I made my way with the masses through several checkpoints and immigration offices and eventually found myself in Thailand where sadly enough I encountered the exact same problem.
"The Cambodian's never told me you had a bicycle. You have to wait for the big bus, sit here 2 hours".
"I've already went through this and they said it was no problem. Why can't I get on this bus?"
"There's no room, you have to wait"
Realizing there was no convincing the guy I sat down while the beggar children danced around my bike trying to take my soda and various cycling instruments. It was funny watching them run and play and eat and drink and then all of a sudden a group of foreigners arrived and they would look all solemn like the kids on those infomercials do. holding out their hands, whimpering. One of them even picked up a baby and began chasing after a group with baby in tow. This one time a border patrol officer showed up with a stick and the whimpering, limping children suddenly changed pace into a dead run across the street.
Well after an hour went by they led me to another area where we sat down again...but at least there was food. The restaurant next to me was overpriced but I found a Thai market 100 yards away with some really good food.
So finally the bus arrives and we bust it to Bangkok, not even stopping for a bathroom break despite pleas from half the people on the bus. Thank God my stomach flu is gone....
So we get to Bangkok and me, tired, hungry, grumpy, and out of energy exits the bus. A taxi driver approaches me and asks me if I want a ride. I show him my bike and where I'm going and he says "200 Baht".
"But this is a meter taxi....."
"You give me 200 Baht for bycicle"
"Why would I give you 200 Baht when the taxi ride is like 60 Baht?"
"No deal, you have to cycle"
"Why can't I take the taxi?"
"200 Baht"
He did insist on drawing me a map that ended me up in buttfuck nowhere'sville however.
At this point I was about to lose it. Until today, nobody has had any problem with me whatsoever bringing a bike into a taxi, onto a bus, etc. but all of a sudden today is "Protect the interior of you vehicle day" or something.
I felt like collapsing I was so hungry, and worn out. So I found another taxi driver, maybe he will help me.
"How much you give me?"
"But this is a meter taxi..."
"NOOOOOOOoooooo"
"But I've ridden meter taxis before with my bike and it's been no problem"
"NO!"
Still dead lost I found a group of people and asked them where I was/where to go. The delligated amongst themselves for about 5 minutes before drawing me a map. Once again I got lost....
Bangkok is a confusing place you see. SOoooo I found another group of people and this time I hit gold. I felt like screaming but I kept my cool, these people are actually here to help me..
after about 20 minutes of dellegating between 2...then 3...then 4...and finally 5 Thai people they decide they can't draw me a map but rather just give me a map of Bangkok poiting out not only where I was but where I needed to go.
I was about ready to collapse, my string backpack was digging into my shoulders, several cars have almost turned me into a pancake, and still lost, I did my best to follow that map. I had to ask one more person before finding the road. Then all of a sudden familiarity sets in....I know where I am!?! I know where I am!!!! and I race to my guesthouse.
The receptionist/housekeeper remembered me too and greated me with a hearty hello...probably surprised I was still alive (and at that point I actually was too).
I did it. I came full circle. I rode to the Vietnam border and bussed it back. I survivedthe streets of Bangkok, Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap. I beat the packs of crazy dogs. I dodged the crazy traffic. Through heartache, sweat, blistering sunburns, near breakdowns, and moments of complete elation and euphoria I did it, and in a heartbeat I'll do it again.
This trip has singlehandedly been the one the best experiences of my life, and I can't wait for my next big adventure if God permits me to do so. If not, then I suppose I can at least say I've lived my life for all I can and hope to until the day I die.
After three more days I'll head to Tokyo for what I suppose is some actually relaxing. No more waking up at 6 am to beat the sun, no more running from wild dogs, no more crazy unknown. I think if I were to do this trip differently I wouldn't go to Japan. I want to spent my last days in Thailand, cycling. But there will hopefully be another chance to do so.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Homeless people in Cambodia

I hate it. There's no social security for them so it's really heartwrenching to see a guy scooting past you with no legs on a hand powered wheelchair (what I mean is they pedal it like a bike with their hands) which was probably blown off by a landmine or cut off by the Khmer Rouge. So since they are missing the limb they can't work and are forced to beg on the streets. I think this enables a feeling of helplessness in them. I want to help them you know? But I can't give away money to everybody, and I don't like the idea of encouraging their helplessness. So I do my best to talk with them, and if I have it, offer them some food or whatever, but there's so many people out here like that and I don't like encouraging this "white guy gives away the bank" ideology that's floating around here. It's hard. Soooo I've been donating some money along my travels to temples and monks. They normally have things in place where people can sleep and eat for at least one meal for free sooo I figured that's the best way to do it so that way I'm not supporting some Yaba (crystal meth) habit or something. I've come across soooo many beggars today it's been really hard not to just bust out crying. I feel like empowering them is the best way to do something. Give them hope that they can succeed, hope that they can do something better, so I talk with them, and treat them like people and not ignore them. Then maybe they can feel better about themselves, motivate themselves, etc. I feel like treating them like real people is the best I can do right now, and maybe when I finish college I can come back with a job that helps encourage them. I dunno, wishful thinking maybe.
That being said. I had the plan this Christmas to buy some toys and hand it out to the poor kids....that plan failed when I realized how many children are destitute...I'd be broke and have a pretty big line left. But they seem happy enough without it so I feel the temples was a better choice.
That being said, I visited the famous Angkor Wat today. It was overcrowded, full of crazed vendors, and a-hole tourists (which I hope I'm not one of"), and crazy, 11th century temples dedicated to various Hindu gods. Angkor used to be a thriving metropolis of over 1 million people in what used to be a very powerful empire. From what I gathered, like most other empires, it collapsed from within before being invaded and sacked by many other rival armies including the Siamese and the Cham.
I started my tour around the Huuuuuuuuge area at Angkor Wat and then circled to Angkor Thom, a large walled city, and lastly to Ta Promh (sp) where one of the Tomb Raider movies was filmed. I saw a lot of smaller, more remote temples as well that I had no idea what they were since I was without guide, and guidebook thanks to my handy dandy bicycle.
Angkor Wat was impressive, huge, but it was very crowded and the moment I exited I was swarmed by maybe twenty ladies trying to sell their wears. I earned the nickname "superman" thanks to my red and black spandex cycling outfit, which unfortunetaly caught a lot of negative attention from the other tourists. They felt it necessary to insult me every chance they got about what I was wearing, I just had to do my best to save face since I feel it's important in this country.
Next was Angkor Thom. It was nice, I found some old trails and just started riding. I got pretty deep in the jungle where I saw some strange squirrel like animals, wild parrots, and a host of lizards, toads, and bugs....oh were there bugs. Angkor Thom was kinda sparce with only the wall of the city remaining and a few large reservoirs of water.
Around that time I was getting hungry and stopped in at a place for lunch. I had to haggle with the shopowner but I got a free soda and a two dollar discount on my lunch (3 bucks for curry/rice/ and a coke!). There I met some pretty cool Tuk Tuk drivers. It was interesting hearing their story. One guy was absolutely certain he would live in the US after he finished school, I was impressed with how motivated he was and I hope he makes it.
The next 3 hours were spent riding around, trekking my way into the Bayon (several square kilometre reservoir the Angkorian people used as a water supply), and generally just visiting other temples and haggling with vendors about acquiring water etc. They really like ripping us whities off but it's fun talking with them since I'm on a bike they seem to take more interest in me and I generally get a better deal than the next guy if I talk with them for a bit.
The last place I wanted to visit was the famed "Tomb Raider Temple", Ta Promh.
Once there I unfortunately found it quite crowded. I think if I would have done this tour in reverse I would have beaten the crowds....damn. anyways this temple was featured in a National Geographic article I read and seeing the photos really made me want to go there. There was one spot in particular where the roots of a tree surround this one entrance into a part of the temple. the whole temple was surrounded by jungle, consumed if you will. I spent some time walking around but my adrenaline started to rise and so I couldn't concentrate. I had to find that opening, I had to be like the monk on the cover of Nat. Geo. I'm sure I was quite a site since I was frantically walking around in my cycling outfit, gloves, helmet and all.
Finally, on my third time around the temple I spotted a tree, and it looked like it could possibly be the one, but how to get there? I began climbing into small crevaces, jumping across fallen stones, entering "Do Not Enter" areas to get there. Eventually I find a small walkway and made my way around the corner and there it was.......it was soo beautiful and so awesome it gave me shivers. It was however quite popular and surrounded by tourists but I didn't care. My camera battery about dead (I had been saving it for this moment) I had a man take a picture for me. First time, the camera died outright.....Second time, *snap* and I had my photo. about three pictures later my camera died for good.
Feeling Successful I made my way around the temple one more time taking in the sights, sounds, and smells (which was a quite a nice smell minus my stinky self).
The ride back into town was fun too. I raced motorbikes, weaved my way through rush hour traffic and dodged trucks, cars, and vans. All in all it was a good day. I even had ice cream for dessert!
Tomorrow I make my way back into Bangkok by bus (10 hours.....) and will head back to the hotel I started in. There I will figure out what to do with my bicycle and get the rest of my Christmas gifts for folk and maybe see a few more sights before heading off to part 3 of my adventure, Japan.
To be honest I really don't want to leave here. I want to find a job as an english teacher or something and just live my life here a while. Whatever the case I'll be back. I may have to finish school but I'll be back, and I will live here. I love this culture, and I've met so many interesting people it's been amazing and I can't wait to come back here again.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Stoooommmaccchh fluuuuuuuuu

Yes I'm afraid so. I've been sitting on the toilet the last few hours. Luckily, I'm loaded with all sorts of lovely drugs and have been holding up quite well thanks to them!
Anyways I'm in Siem Reap now. Strangely enough Siem Reap means, "Siam Defeated"....meaning the Thai's. But if it weren't for the French the Thai's would still be in control of Angkor....huh...
Anyways, I arrived in Kampot by bicycle and the city is great! Real small, easy to navigate, lacking in motobikes, very nice place.
The next day I decided to go caving in the nearby caves. At the first place I met these small children, Sai and Khok, and they showed me around the place. It started out as just another silly tour...but then they realized I could climb.. So then they started taking me all over this cave up crevaces over walls through tiny openings in the cave. It was awesome. I went to another cave after that but it just wasn't as good.
After my adventure in caving I cycled to the resort city of Kep. Kep was a place where the Khmer elite would spend their days, until Pol Pot came to power in '75 and destroyed the place. There I visited a villa created by king Sihanouk. He was hoping to retire there but well...you know. I also had some yummy seafood at the oceanfront.
The next day I hopped a bus and made my way to Phnom Penh. I can't say I really that city. It's polluted, crowded, dangerous, full of people jumping at the chance to rob you blind...yeah my not kind of thing. So I only stayed one night to see the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng prison, also known as S-21. I can't say I enjoyed the experience, it was really messed up what the Khmer Rouge did, and the US supported it. Ugh, it was bad. Plus, all the skulls of the deceased are on display in this temple.
Sooo today I'm sick, and had to take a 6 hour bus ride to Siem Reap. Needless to say it was rough. However this city has a much nicer vibe to it than the bussling capitol. It's about half the size but dramatically cleaner and so far the people are quite friendly. As long as my health holds out I'll go and visit Angkor Wat tomorrow on my last cycling adventure of this trip. In a couple days I'll make my way back to Bangkok where I'll fly to Japan to see my friends and take it easy...hopefully no more stomach flu.
Oh Merry Christmas everybody!!!

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Soooo much has happened!!!!

I think the last time I wrote I was making my way to Koh Chang island off the coast of Thailand. Well I went there, and it was great! I stayed in a bungalow right off the super secluded beach (because of the terrible roads) on the far south side of the island. I went snorkeling, met some amazing people and got some really bad sunburns. It was soooo nice. After two nights in Koh Chang I made my way back to Trat and stayed one more night there before finally making my way into Cambodia. It's funny how I thought I would spend all of my vacation here but I'm actually only staying one week!!
The difference from Thailand and Cambodia was instantaneous. The Thai's are sooooo much wealthier than people here in Cambodia. Crossing the border was like going from modern civilazation to something out of Mad Max. This place seriously reminds me of something post apocalyptic (which I suppose is the case with Pol Pot and all that). Also, they drive on the right here and on the left in Thailand...that was really weird for me.
Koh Kong City was dirty, rundown, and full of people that made me feel like a nice stroll in the dark wouldn't be so nice...I stayed in after I ate dinner.
The next day (which was yesterday) I left Koh Kong City and made my way to Sri Ambel, a place about 140 km away (80 miles) where the book SAID it would be a nice quiet town right off the highway. Well the beginning of the trip was beautiful. I was the only person on the newly paved road with jungle on both sides. I heard monkeys, saw a snake and a variety of different tropical birds. I kept and eye out for elephants but didn't see any. And then I hit the Cardamom mountain range. Now I'm not used to climbing hills here because aside from Koh Chang (which was insane) there really haven't been that many hills. Needless to say it was absolutely exhausting. I've never been so tired before. After that moutain there was another...
Anyways Finally I leave the mountains and I stop and rest and boom! I had a flat tire...
After that I continued eastward toward my goal, 40 km...30 km....20 km....10 km, my legs were burning and exhaustion had consumed me. The last 10 km was grueling. Finally I arrive in Sri Ambel...or so I thought. As it turns out Sri Ambel was another 3 km down this very treaterous looking road. Well it was getting dark and I had been on my bike for 10 hours so I had no choice but to press on. Slowly I make my way down the road. I was doing quite well until I hear this *hisssssssss* come from my bike tire after taking one bump too many. From that point on I was walking my bike, with about fifty pounds of gear resting on that flat tire. But what else could I do? Darkness was approaching, I was exhausted, and I could feel that bed in that guesthouse, so I kept walking that bike along. The constant nag from children following me, shouting "HELLO!!!!"and laughing was getting to me. *Save face Micah, don't lose your cool, just keep going* "HELLO!!!" I kept walking, exhaustion taking my strength away. people pointing out my flat tire and then laughing at me. I had to walk through the entire village to get to the guesthouse. Every child was shouting, every person staring, laughing, pointing. When I finally got to the guesthouse I closed the door, and did my best not to lose it. That night I couldn't find a restaurant and ended up having sweets for dinner. I went to bed early...
So today at 5:30 am I had to leave that city!! I figured I could get out before everybody woke. I fixed my bike the night before and decided I had to ride out of that city, as a personal goal I had to be on that bike on that horrible road. So I set out, slowly. One bump...another, and another. My bike was tossed all over that road and me with it. Nobody was up but the dogs and the occasional shop owner. I rode right out of that town, and on the highway and covered as much ground as possible before resting.
Today my fortunes were much more in my favor. I met and chatted with a monk, who gave me a personal tour of the local temple. I spoke english with a girl my sisters age who had dreams of becoming an interpreter. I ate with a group of gruff Khmer men, each of whom had survived the Khmer Rouge Holocaust (One man even had a scar running down his face). I raced little children on their bikes. I was chased by mobs of kids as I entered their town, giving them each high fives. The constant "HELLO!!!" was much less annoying now that I was in good temperment and not ready to keel over and die. I had no mountains to worry about and got some great views of the coast, the mountains, and what the daily lives of these amazing people are like.
These people have nothing, absolutely nothing, but they are so happy, so hardworking, so full of life and promise. What does that say about us back home?
Today I arrived in Kampot city, a small provincal capitol, and this...sadly...is where my bike trip comes to an end.
I want to push on, my heart is screaming at me to push on. *Go into Vietnam, see the hill tribe peoples, make your way into Laos, China, Mongolia, Korea....* I want to keep going, I don't want my cycling to end. However I still have a couple small trips set up for me and the bike. My tires are thrashed, but this has to have been the best trip I've ever taken. I just wish I could keep going. Just means I'll have to save my money and maybe someday I'll be able to take a yearlong trip on that back of that bike.
Tomorrow I will make my way to some caves, and then to a nearby beach and after that I'll bus it to Phnom Penh, then to Siem Riap where I will visit Angkor Wat and then make my back to Bangkok before departing to Japan to see my friends.
Soo I suppose I'll just have to start saving when I get back...damn you travel bug...

Sunday, December 13, 2009

I love internet cafe's

Not only are they cozy, and airconditioned...but also dirt cheap!!!
So I left Bangkok yesterday morning and went to Sri Racha. My last night in Bangkok was nuts and it involved celebrating the queen with literally millions of pink-shirted Thais, but also going to a karaoke bar where the only english songs were Elvis Presley...haha ohhhh maannn. In Sri racha my hotel room was directly over the ocean on these crazy stilts. I felt kinda bad going to the bathroom but what could I do?
At first the town seemed kinda boring...until I went to Ko Loi temple. in a pond outside the temple had a pool full of sea turtles that you could feed cuttlefish for 10 baht. It was ammaaaaazing! For dinner I had a nice oceanview on this very japanese restaurant (I sat on the floor with a tatami) and ate what was quite possibly the single spiciest food I've ever eaten in my life. It looked like a harmless salad but my god. I went to bed early because of my ride, but would have liked to go out. They had quiet a few music venues but what can you do? Soooo today I took the 70 km ride to Rayong (sp?) It was a long ride but not too strenuous. It was actually quite flat sooo it was nice...minus the traffic. I never thought there'd be this many cars, trucks, buses and motorbikes this far from Bangkok but I guess not...There were a couple of close calls but Thai drivers are surprisingly curteous to cyclists. It was really nice. On the highway there is even a lane for motorbikes and bicycles. I stopped off at a few roadside stands and caused quite a comotion being a scantily clad white guy riding down on a bike. And don't even get me started on the flat tire....it's like the whole village decided to come out and help me...
Rayong seems nice and once it cools down a bit I might do a little sightseeing. There's a pretty cool looking market in the town center.
Tomorrow I cruise off to Chanthaburi and from there to Trat where I'll hangout for a few days and probably go visit the nearby island for a night of beachside relaxation.
Anyways that's my life right now. I think I'm going to go aloe up my legs...they HURT!!!!!

I love internet cafe

Friday, December 11, 2009

My bike arrived!!!

Not only that but it's in great shape and is ready to rock and roll!!!! The box was pretty thrashed so I need to get a new one but I think I should be able to find one when I arrive in Phnom Penh. I think I'm also going to try mailing it back to my house to avoid that frickin' two hundred dollar fee associated with bikes... ::shutter::
Today I saw more monks than I've ever seen in my life...it was nuts. Also, I had a great lunch at this little hole in the wall place. The bill.....less than 2 dollars including a soda, and that's pretty much how it's been the whole time around here. Everything is soooo cheap it's great.
Also, the boats are pretty sweet. It's like taking a bus...only it's a packed boat.
I'm leaving Bangkok tomorrow for Si Racha, a small resort town on the East coast. From there I'm biking it. I'm just freaked out by bangkok traffic to even attempt to ride out of here. Otherwise everything is going great and it's looking to be a good trip.

Still no bike....

:/

But I do have everything else I need to get this bike rolling...now if only it would roll over here.
I'm going to call the service today and see what's going on, hopefully it's just being delivered on Thai time and there isn't a real problem. Yesterday I went all over the city and ended up in some pretty wild shopping areas to get the last of the things I need. I got a voltage converter, thank god, and a few other things so I can make it into Cambodia etc. So now i'll just make sure I get that bike delivered TOOODAYYYY because otherwise I'm in trouble.
OH! I almost forgot. Sooo I broke a rule yesterday...twice.....
The one thing everybody told me not to do...I did.....oh yes...I drank the water....
However, it was ice and so far I seem to be doing allright. Honestly I couldn't avoid it.....honest!
Anyways, today I'm going to the Emerald Buddha and the imperial palace of the first kind. I've heard it's quite beautiful.
Oh! and I've eaten the best eggs ever today...my god were they good...mmmmmm

Thursday, December 10, 2009

I LIIIIIIVVEEEE!!!!!

Erm, sorta.

There was a slight problem in transit and my bike was left behind in Seattle....with the host of my other goods in that box including.sunblock...ouch. However it's no biggy. I don't leave Bangkok until Sunday (It's Friday right now). The flight was long, stopping off in Japan made me miss it but getting here....you know...surprisingly I'm not culture shocked at all. Since I was in 'Nam last year I feel like I've gotten used to this kind of environment and it feels sorta....homely.
The taxi driver I had was pretty crazy. In the back of his car had all these posters of places where you can get a "massage". He also suggested I pay him a set price instead of the meter, which was more expensive, and go to another hotel because mine was "very bad". Once he realised he wasn't going to scam me he was actually really helpful. I appreciated talking to him and he woke up the receptionist for me sooo yeah.
I just wish I had my bike...

Today I'm going to try and make my way to a place to get my Cambodian visa and a few other things I couldn't acquire before I left and if my bike comes tonight I should be set!!
On Sunday I'm taking a bus to a town on the east coast so I don't have to deal with traffic here (this city is massive!!!). Anyways that's what's going on with me, I'll have more up later....
but now, it's breakfast time!!

Thursday, December 3, 2009

About to go...

I've completed my shopping list for my trip and will be outta here in 6 days! Hopefully any weird thing that happens should be taken care of by what I have. I can't wait to do this. I'll be sure to come back safe and see you all when I'm home. Also, thanks for everybody's help on this. I wouldn't have been able to take this trip without the help of everyone. So thanks!
That's all for now. I just have to get through finals and I'll be home free.....