Sunday, December 27, 2009

Difficult Day Re-do

Well I awoke in Siem Reap early, had a quick breakfast and made my way to the bus station, all packed up and ready to hit bangkok around lunchtime.
When I arrived at the station there was a bit of commotion about my bike. I didn't think anything of it because there is always commotion about it. The people seem to really like it. Well eventually one of the guys asks me if I'm bringing it on the bus. I mean I was planning on ditching the 33 year old vintage bike my dad let me borrow...but as a last thought I decided to bring it along you know?...riiiight. Anyways I explain to him that since I brought it from home of course I'm bringing it on the bus.
"Oh so sorry, you can't bring that on the bus."
"Why not?", I asked.
"Because the bus is very small"
"I've seem chickens, motorbikes, suitcases, cages, farm equipment and people sitting on the roof of the small buses....since when is a bicycle a problem?"
"You'll tear the upholstery"
At this point I was confused....Cambodian buses have upholstery?
So I explained to him that I needed to get on this bus, I had already made hotel reservations and I need to get to Bangkok today. I've already purchased my ticket and you knew I was bringing a bike. In fact, I've been taking buses the last few days, small buses mind you, and they've had no problem throwing a bike in there. The tires even come off! How handy is that?!
"Still cannot, you will damage the bus, and there is no room. You cannot ride the bus to Bangkok, not with this company.
After a few more minutes of this I at least managed to get a refund for my ticket and then sped my way to the central bus station 3 km out of town to try and catch another bus. After all this is Cambodia...if at first you don't succeed, find another way.
At the bus station I find a man selling tickets for the exact same company to the exact same bus. I explain my situation, throw him 2 extra dollars for my bicycle, and I was on the bus to Bangkok!...the exact same bus I would have ridden before....
It was a long three hours, but finally at the border I made my way with the masses through several checkpoints and immigration offices and eventually found myself in Thailand where sadly enough I encountered the exact same problem.
"The Cambodian's never told me you had a bicycle. You have to wait for the big bus, sit here 2 hours".
"I've already went through this and they said it was no problem. Why can't I get on this bus?"
"There's no room, you have to wait"
Realizing there was no convincing the guy I sat down while the beggar children danced around my bike trying to take my soda and various cycling instruments. It was funny watching them run and play and eat and drink and then all of a sudden a group of foreigners arrived and they would look all solemn like the kids on those infomercials do. holding out their hands, whimpering. One of them even picked up a baby and began chasing after a group with baby in tow. This one time a border patrol officer showed up with a stick and the whimpering, limping children suddenly changed pace into a dead run across the street.
Well after an hour went by they led me to another area where we sat down again...but at least there was food. The restaurant next to me was overpriced but I found a Thai market 100 yards away with some really good food.
So finally the bus arrives and we bust it to Bangkok, not even stopping for a bathroom break despite pleas from half the people on the bus. Thank God my stomach flu is gone....
So we get to Bangkok and me, tired, hungry, grumpy, and out of energy exits the bus. A taxi driver approaches me and asks me if I want a ride. I show him my bike and where I'm going and he says "200 Baht".
"But this is a meter taxi....."
"You give me 200 Baht for bycicle"
"Why would I give you 200 Baht when the taxi ride is like 60 Baht?"
"No deal, you have to cycle"
"Why can't I take the taxi?"
"200 Baht"
He did insist on drawing me a map that ended me up in buttfuck nowhere'sville however.
At this point I was about to lose it. Until today, nobody has had any problem with me whatsoever bringing a bike into a taxi, onto a bus, etc. but all of a sudden today is "Protect the interior of you vehicle day" or something.
I felt like collapsing I was so hungry, and worn out. So I found another taxi driver, maybe he will help me.
"How much you give me?"
"But this is a meter taxi..."
"NOOOOOOOoooooo"
"But I've ridden meter taxis before with my bike and it's been no problem"
"NO!"
Still dead lost I found a group of people and asked them where I was/where to go. The delligated amongst themselves for about 5 minutes before drawing me a map. Once again I got lost....
Bangkok is a confusing place you see. SOoooo I found another group of people and this time I hit gold. I felt like screaming but I kept my cool, these people are actually here to help me..
after about 20 minutes of dellegating between 2...then 3...then 4...and finally 5 Thai people they decide they can't draw me a map but rather just give me a map of Bangkok poiting out not only where I was but where I needed to go.
I was about ready to collapse, my string backpack was digging into my shoulders, several cars have almost turned me into a pancake, and still lost, I did my best to follow that map. I had to ask one more person before finding the road. Then all of a sudden familiarity sets in....I know where I am!?! I know where I am!!!! and I race to my guesthouse.
The receptionist/housekeeper remembered me too and greated me with a hearty hello...probably surprised I was still alive (and at that point I actually was too).
I did it. I came full circle. I rode to the Vietnam border and bussed it back. I survivedthe streets of Bangkok, Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap. I beat the packs of crazy dogs. I dodged the crazy traffic. Through heartache, sweat, blistering sunburns, near breakdowns, and moments of complete elation and euphoria I did it, and in a heartbeat I'll do it again.
This trip has singlehandedly been the one the best experiences of my life, and I can't wait for my next big adventure if God permits me to do so. If not, then I suppose I can at least say I've lived my life for all I can and hope to until the day I die.
After three more days I'll head to Tokyo for what I suppose is some actually relaxing. No more waking up at 6 am to beat the sun, no more running from wild dogs, no more crazy unknown. I think if I were to do this trip differently I wouldn't go to Japan. I want to spent my last days in Thailand, cycling. But there will hopefully be another chance to do so.

2 comments:

Glenn said...

Hey Micah, your polite persistence paid off! I'll bet the woman who greeted you at the inn with a smile was a welcome site! I think you will enjoy Japan too. Stay in touch!

Jenny Lou said...
This comment has been removed by the author.